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Posts Tagged ‘skirt’

I haven’t written about any sewing projects since the denim skirt episode. Which is not to say I haven’t been sewing. I have; I just couldn’t be bothered telling anyone.


Over the past few weeks I’ve made four identical skirts. Five if you count the toile. Not all the same fabric, don’t be ridiculous, it’s not a corporate uniform. Four different pieces from Darn Cheap Fabrics – three were only $10/metre, the fourth was a bit more pricey. Cheap skirts when you consider I only needed a metre for each one, plus a bit of lining and a zip.

vogue pattern 2863Here’s the Vogue pattern (no. 2863; click to see a larger version). The main aim of this style of skirt is to have it fitting nicely on the waist so it doesn’t slip down towards the hips. When it works, it means you can wear a wide belt over the top and not have to worry about yanking the skirt back up every 10 minutes.
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[read Part 2]
I’m wrapping up this project in Part 3. I’m over it. Please, no scrolling straight down to the end to see the final product! I’m going to make you read every bit of what I went through.


Reinforcing the front pockets and back yoke

reinforcing the back yoke seamThe fabric is stretchy and this can create problems in areas where you don’t want a garment to stretch. For the front pocket openings and the back yokes I sewed twill tape into the seams.

Inserting the zip

fly-front zip insertedI hadn’t inserted a fly-front zip for a while. It’s not that hard to do but I found a great tutorial by Sandra Betzina to refresh my memory. She suggests you ignore the instructions in the pattern and follow her method. OK, why not?

After some faffing about, and replaying the video a few times, I got the zip in. I liked Sandra’s statement: ‘There are times when you’re a perfectionist and there are times not to be.’ Knowing when you can cut corners and when you need to be neat and accurate comes with experience.
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[read Part 1]
I’m ready to grade the pattern to size 12. The good news is it’s a multi-size pattern (sizes 14-18) and, when I first made this skirt about 10 years ago, I didn’t cut off sizes 16 and 18. So it’s a relatively easy job to work out where to draw the cutting lines for size 12. Even better it’s only the side seams, waist band and back yoke that need adjusting.

There’s nothing high-tech about my method here. I just measure the spacing between the existing sizes and draw new lines proportionally for the smaller size. Professional patternmakers might have something to say about it but it works for me, especially for such a simple skirt. I’ll adjust the pattern further once I’ve made the toile.

Grading the pattern to size 12
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OK, it’s taken a bit longer than expected to get my new post ready. I know my many followers have been eagerly awaiting it, right? Turns out if you’re going to blog about making a skirt you actually have to make the skirt. And deal with the problems that arise while trying to pretend it’s all going smoothly.

Let’s hope we make it to Parts 2 and 3 and the all-important ‘reveal’. But for now, here goes Part 1:


I fancied making a denim skirt with fabric I bought a few weeks ago at a closing-down sale. It’s a mid-weight denim-type material with a bit of elastane in it. And it was really cheap, only $2/metre!

Brown denim fabric

McCalls pattern 3529 - skirtThe main problem has been finding a pattern. You know, looks like a pair of jeans but is actually a skirt (and I definitely don’t mean a skirt that’s been recycled from a pair of jeans). Why do pattern books never have what you want when you want it? I went through all the commercial pattern books. Nothing. So I took a look in my pattern box and found this one (it’s © 2002):

It’ll do. But the size isn’t right and there are no back pockets (and I suspect it’s too high-waisted), which means I’ve got a bit of prep work ahead of me. The plan is:

  • pre-wash/pre-shrink the fabric (tick that job)
  • iron the pattern pieces and grade the whole pattern down a size
  • make a quick toile in calico to see if it fits
  • make the real thing

Part 2 coming up. Hang in there.

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