Third bit from the right

[read Part 1]
I’m ready to grade the pattern to size 12. The good news is it’s a multi-size pattern (sizes 14-18) and, when I first made this skirt about 10 years ago, I didn’t cut off sizes 16 and 18. So it’s a relatively easy job to work out where to draw the cutting lines for size 12. Even better it’s only the side seams, waist band and back yoke that need adjusting.

There’s nothing high-tech about my method here. I just measure the spacing between the existing sizes and draw new lines proportionally for the smaller size. Professional patternmakers might have something to say about it but it works for me, especially for such a simple skirt. I’ll adjust the pattern further once I’ve made the toile.

One complicating factor is that this is a ‘Palmer/Pletsch’ pattern (who are they, do you reckon? Ah, I just worked it out), which means they’ve added ‘larger “in-case” seam allowances “in case” you need them’. The seam allowance on the sides and waist is 2.5 cm instead of 1.5 cm. Not too hard to deal with I suppose but this pattern is starting to annoy me. (Did I mention I’m also making it 5 cm longer?)

Tweaking the toile

So, with my pattern ready, I’ve now cut it out in calico and sewn it all together. It’s not too a bad fit but it puckers across the back yoke. And I forgot to lengthen the fly front extension, which means the front opening is not big enough. I’m struggling to pull the thing up over my hips.

Now I know what the skirt looks like I’ve decided the back yoke is too deep. I prefer the look of these jeans, including the pockets (very easy job to measure the pockets and cut a pattern):

Unfortunately, adjusting the skirt back and back yoke to the shape I want proves trickier than expected. It takes me several attempts to get it right. Better patternmaking skills would have come in handy about this point. Here are my final versions of the two altered bits of pattern:

I’ve made up a new mini toile (for the adjusted back pieces) and pinned it to the original toile. Seems fine to me. I can now go ahead and cut out my real fabric and get sewing.

Part 3 coming up. (I suspect there’ll be a part 4 as well.)